Oktoberfest: O’zapft is!

The kegs have been tapped and the beer is flowing at the Wiesn in Munich because today is the opening of the 177th Oktoberfest.

At the gate with my Lebkuchen necklace

Two years ago I attended Oktoberfest before my study abroad program began in Salzburg. I went early so that I could go to this party of parties, and then, once the rest of the group found out that I had gone, well, many others wanted to go, too, so I returned.

Oktoberfest is wild and crazy. There is really no other way to describe it. The two-hour train ride from Salzburg was just the start of the party, because you can drink beer on the train, and everyone began the party there.

I also do not think I have ever been somewhere where there was no breathing room anywhere due to the wall-to-wall people like I experienced at the Wiesn.

Throngs of people everywhere

Before going, I had done some research on the tents, checking out the music and just trying to learn as much as I could. What I found was that the Hacker-Pschorr tent supposedly has the best music, which just happens to be classic American songs.

Taste in music was one thing I learned well at Oktoberfest. The Germans have incorporated American songs like “Hey Baby,” “Sweet Caroline,” “Sweet Home Alabama” and “Country Roads” into their repertoire. As perplexing as that is, it’s true. When these songs were played, everyone went crazy. Everyone also goes crazy when “Ein Prosit” is played, which is often played when things have died down a bit just to stir things up again.

Sadly, I was too entranced by everything to take more than one video, which I regret. But you can see what it’s like early in the day at Hofbräu Festzelt:

Another surprise was the size of the tents. I pictured graduation party tents that fit in your backyard. Really, this was exceedingly foolish of me to picture something so small, but nevertheless, that’s what a tent is to me. The tents on the Oktoberfest grounds are so much more than a tent. These are semi-permanent structures that can hold thousands of people.

Inside the Hacker-Pschorr tent, the "Heaven of Bavaria"

To get into a tent, you really need a reservation. When you don’t have a reservation, you need to be there early. And you need to be there on a weekday. I was there first on a Thursday and then on the following Sunday. Sunday was the day of super crowdedness, as opposed to Thursday, which was much more manageable. Both times we arrived on the 11 a.m. train (use the bathroom on the train before disembarking), and the grounds are conveniently a 15 minute (or less) walk from the main train station. Arriving early allows you to enter a tent and search for an unreserved table you can sit at. (Hofbräuhaus  has a standing-room section, but I don’t really like their beer and it easily gets packed, too.) Females can manage to squish into seating at tables, but for guys, it is not so easy. And even once you’ve found a seat, you have until 6 p.m. when your table gets turned over to the evening reservation, and every table is booked. And the search for a seat begins again and is much, much more difficult at this hour.

You might be thinking, “What’s the big deal about having a seat? I can stand and drink beer.” You could stand and drink beer, but you can’t get served unless you have a seat.

I am sad that I can’t be in Munich for another Oktoberfest this year, and I also can’t get to Cincinnati for their supposedly quite authentic Oktoberfest this weekend. But I did get to attend the German-American Festival in Toledo a couple of weeks ago, where I proudly wore my Austrian dirndl, even though Austria is snubbed in the event (it’s only about Germany and Switzerland).

The other strange thing I noticed about this event is that it fulfills many of the American stereotypes of what Germany is like. There were plastic boots to drink beer from, lots of ooompa music and “Edelweiss.” Germany and Austria may be these things, but if the bands were truly authentic, they would not have played “Edelweiss,” which is an American song written by Americans for “The Sound of Music.” There also should have been some American classics like “Hey Baby” that were part of the program. But really, I don’t want to complain because beggars can’t be choosy. I got to have a Schnitzelsandwich, served on an American hamburger bun, but again, it was Schnitzel. In Ohio. And Alison was happy.

Here is a video of the music at the German-American Festival, where you’ll hear “Edelweiss” in German and English and get to hear the Falcon Marching Band Trombones’ version of “Beer Barrel Polka” :

And here is a slideshow of Oktoberfest 2008:

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Wednesday photo: Dubrovnik

Strolling down the Stradun was not the easiest thing in the world, thanks to the marble blocks that so smoothly line this street in the heart of Dubrovnik, Croatia.

This view is looking west at sunset, toward the Gradska Vrata Pile, or Pile Gate. The tower is the bell tower of the Franciscan Monastery Museum.

I was in Dubrovnik in May 2009, and the city was already bustling with cruise-ship tourists. And it was sweltering hot. Any later in the summer and a visit here could easily be miserable, but there are a handful of serene locations where you can soak up some rays and splash in the water.

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Collecting foreign money

One of the things I love to collect when I travel is the local currency. My list of countries with their own national currency that I’ve been to is kind of small, mostly thanks to the European Union and its common currency. England, Croatia, Romania and Slovakia (which I went to specifically in 2008 rather than 2009 so that I could get some Slovak korunas) were really the only places I was able to pick up anything at all during my year abroad.

But I do have an uncle (really a great uncle) who loves to travel. He’s slowed down the last few years, but as a teacher, he was able to amply travel the globe. Collecting currency was something he always did, too, and over the years, his foreign currency has been passed along to me.

Essentially, I have my own little international monetary fund. I have the money, separated by country in individual zip-top bags, stored in a tin because I’m super classy. Africa is the most underrated in my collection, with money only from Tunisia, Egypt and South Africa. And I have money from only one Middle Eastern country (Saudi Arabia). I have coins and bills from most of Europe (pre-euro and some country-specific euros like the Mozart euros from Austria) and many South American countries. My uncle has also traveled to a lot of the Caribbean islands and also to east Asia from the mainland to the islands, from Polynesia to Macau and New Zealand.

I spent a bit of time with my collection last evening, straightening up my ordering system and adding in the money I collected. And I came across some pretty interesting finds:

First up is China. I really like the mauve color and the intricate patterns.

This bill is from Costa Rica. It is the most colorful of all the money in my collection.

Again, I like the pattern in the middle of this Italian lire.

Poland is one of those places where you could easily be a millionaire, when bills are printed in amounts of 50000.

I did not realize what this was at first glance, until I understood that yes, I am reading English on Italian money. This is allied military currency, issued in 1943. On the back, which is too faint to read on the scan, it says: Freedom of speech, freedom of religion, freedom from want and freedom from fear. It also says that it is for Johnny for a shoe shine, and I do have an Uncle John, so I’m going to have to check into a bit of family history with this bill.

Next up are my perplexing Japanese pesos that look similar to the American dollar. What I’ve found is that these are from WWII and are Japanese-government issued Philippine fiat money. The first 1 peso is about the size of Monopoly money and the others are American-dollar size. From what Wikipedia says, this money was about as worthwhile as Monopoly money.

These next two coins are from Spain, and I just thought the hole made them extra neat.

This is my other perplexing piece from the organizing. I couldn’t figure this one out, especially because the flip side had only the number 10 on it. Finally, I turned to Google and what I learned was an epiphany. This coin is from Switzerland, and the writing is in Latin so that none of the country’s four languages would be favored on the money. And now I know why the letters for Switzerland are CH!
And last, but not least, is probably the jewel of the collection, if one could call it that. It’s a 10 Pfennig coin from Das Deutsches Reich.

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Wednesday photo: Zmajski Most

Ljubljana, Slovenia, is home to the Dragon Bridge or Zmajski Most.

The dragon has been a symbol of Ljubljana ever since Jason of the Argonauts and Golden Fleece notoriety slew one in a nearby swamp. This bridge was not designed by the city’s famous architect Joze Plecnik, but by Jurij Zaninovic.

Unfortunately, there are traffic lights near the bridge, which makes taking a photo of the dragons head on without lights or signs in the way a bit difficult. But the sky that day seemed so dragon-like that this angle worked out great.

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Postcard arrival: China and Memphis

In my last batch of postcards I received another one from China and my first from Tennessee.

This card from China shows the sunset in Mount Tuishan, Shandong Province. The stamps here definitely win the “best stamp” prize of the 20 postcards I have now received.

I also received a card from Graceland in Memphis, Tenn. This card has the new scouting stamp unveiled at the Jamboree in D.C. a couple weeks ago that I am quite knowledgeable after working with an attendee for a story for work. But, back to Tennessee, the author says, “Graceland is where Elvis Presley lived and is remarkable to most people.” I can’t say, since I haven’t been there yet.

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It’s fair time, part 3

Finally, I can take a moment to breathe! My fair entries were submitted yesterday afternoon, and the Hancock County Fair began today. My entries were judged today, as well.

On Monday night I baked for a couple of hours without any major problems. My chocolate chip cookies and lemon bars turned out lovely and tasted quite delicious, if I may say so myself.

Most of my problems, though, came from trying to cut cardboard with an X-Acto blade. The photos needed to be mounted on cardboard at least 1/8 inch think, and I, of course, had a difficult time cutting through the cardboard. And, of course, I ran out of proper-thickness cardboard, so I had to use other cardboard and layer it. I was doing this all while baking my cookies, so I was running back and forth between my cardboard and my oven, because I never set a timer for my desserts the entire night.

I managed to get most everything finished Monday night, with final preparations Tuesday morning and afternoon before delivering them to the fairgrounds, when I breathed my final sigh of relief.

Then today, I headed back to the fairgrounds to check on my baked goods, and sadly, neither won. The newsroom was disappointed, but they still love my baked goods, which is all that really matters.

Again this evening, I returned for the photo judging, and my categories already had winners. I wanted some input, but oh well. I check my flower first: no ribbon. Then my sunset and no ribbon. But then, I see my Venetian canals and there’s a red, second-place ribbon hanging on my photograph!

It was so exciting! And it was nice to know that all my work for this paid off for something, even if it is a $4 premium, which might just be the best thing imaginable.

And then I spent the evening watching marching bands, a scene I did not expect at the fair and do not associate with fairs, but I love marching bands, especially good ones, and there was one I may have to see again this football season. So all in all, definitely a good night at the fair.

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Wednesday photo: Festival Theatre, Stratford, Ont.

Stratford, Ontario, in Canada, is home to the Shakespeare Festival, a months-long festival filled with Shakespeare, musicals and other dramas.

This building is the Festival Theatre, the main theater for the festival. It is topped with a Canadian flag and out front there is a wonderful garden area. A couple days ago, I posted a story about my reason for going to the theater: “So now you have a crush on Christopher Plummer.” Yes, I drove five-plus hours to see Plummer act in a extraordinary performance of “The Tempest.” But Stratford is a quaint, though touristy place, and a visit in the summer was much improved weather-wise over my visit in November 2006.

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Thursday Traveler: Alison Kemp

This past Thursday, Amanda from A Dangerous Business featured me as her Thursday Traveler. You should read my interview, where you’ll get to find out the one place I want to go before I die, my proudest travel moment and other wonderful things, such as seeing me try to milk a cow in Romania!

So, enjoy Thursday Traveler: Alison Kemp and A Dangerous Business.

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Postcard arrival: The Netherlands, England

In the last week I have received seven postcards! In this post, I am beginning with another lovely picture of the bulb fields in the Netherlands. I don’t mind at all that I get so many postcards from there because I love tulips.

This postcard is from England, from 10-year-old Tristan, who asked me to send one back to England for him, which I will surely do.

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“So now you have a crush on Christopher Plummer…”

…says the clerk at my hostel in Stratford, Ontario, on Friday morning.

Really, I already had a crush on Christopher Plummer, but only on a much younger Plummer of “The Sound of Music” variety. After “The Tempest” at Stratford Shakespeare Festival on Thursday night, I now am more in awe of the man.

The desk clerk told me that many a lady has come to Stratford, just hoping to catch a glimpse of Plummer outside the theater, and she said these sightings do happen, but I didn’t see him.

But I went to see him as Prospero, and he did a marvelous job. A lesser supporting cast could have made the show much less wonderful, but everyone, particularly the roles of Ariel along with Trinculo and Stephano were acted so superbly that there were no dull moments (and I can’t say that at all about “As You Like It,” which I saw on Friday).

I think I could see “The Tempest” once a day for at least the next month. That is how good it was. I know there are things I missed, even with recently reading the play. The special effects were well executed and I would like to see them again, too. And I know I am not the only one who thinks this, too. I have seen a couple musicals with “famous people” the past few years, and not one of them has had a reaction like “The Tempest.” I think the audience could have clapped for Plummer all night long. I don’t think anyone wanted it to be over as we all sat in rapture through his final soliloquy and epilogue:


But release me from my bands
With the help of your good hands:
Gentle breath of yours my sails
Must fill, or else my project fails,
Which was to please. Now I want
Spirits to enforce, art to enchant,
And my ending is despair,
Unless I be relieved by prayer,
Which pierces so that it assaults
Mercy itself and frees all faults.
As you from crimes would pardon’d be,
Let your indulgence set me free .

With that, I shall also end my post, with more to come on Stratford, its swans and some of its shops.

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