Gratitude: Bushfire

This past week was a whirlwind. I hardly remember what happened before Bushfire, eSwatini’s incredible music festival.

Before Bushfire, I spent three lessons at school preparing for a debate. My students chose an incredibly difficult topic that I believe they are underestimating. However it turns out, it is a learning experience for these kids. For a handful of them, Thursday was the first time they had ever touched a computer, let alone use the internet. Sending them off into the internet to do research on assisted suicide couldn’t even begin until we had a crash course in computer basics.

eSwatini is humbling on days like that. I receive daily reflections from a company called Holstee, and I have recently received a few about gratitude. In one of these reflections, the author paused to think about how grateful he is for running water. I don’t think he was ever a Peace Corps Volunteer, but if he really wants a lesson in gratitude, Peace Corps is the place. It is a headfirst dive into minimalist living and a place to learn what you really need in life.

Running water makes life easy. What I have appreciated more is the electricity and internet I have. I used a lot of both this past week as I spent the mornings memorizing the siSwati and isiZulu words to a handful of songs I expected would be played at Bushfire.

The ones I already knew paid off the most, though. I was nearly moved to tears of joy during Velemseni’s performance of her new song “Shisa” that was a perfectly-timed release in the weeks approaching Bushfire and her performance of “Hey Mamma” with a surprise addition of Bholoja, who sang only in siSwati that I 100 percent understood.

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Velemseni

On Saturday I experienced another chunk of my 15 minutes of eSwatini fame. When your skin color makes you stick out, people watch. I was in the front row, ready to scream and dance and sing along with all of the other women of eSwatini who love Sands. I was regularly shown on the big screen during his performance as I knew all the words to his already-released songs, and I can understand his siSwati even when I don’t understand the words, so singing along to the choruses of his new songs was easy.

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Sands down on one knee singing “Vuma,” which means to accept. It is used to asked someone to marry you.

My actions were noticed enough that I was approached after the show by the keys player from the group about how much I obviously loved the performance. And then when I got home on Monday, make told me I was shown singing along to Sands during Bushfire clips on both news channels on Sunday night.

Then on Sunday I went to an incredibly intimate performance by Bholoja who honored my request for him to sing my favorite song of his.

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Thanking Bholoja for playing my favorite song. 

During the weekend I appreciated the music of so many varied performers. I miss the music scene of Salt Lake City, and Bushfire has overfilled that gap. I wouldn’t buy a ticket to see a band I had never heard of in SLC, but at Bushfire the weekend is largely filled with performers whose music I do not know. Their Bushfire performances turn me into fans. I am grateful for a weekend filled with friends and music both new and old. I am also grateful to have a year to recover before the next one.

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Wednesday photo: I ❤️ Swaziland

My love for this place hasn’t changed, even though its name has. 

 

This is one of my newly-made outfits.

 
There were a variety of photo shoots at our close of service conference earlier this month, including one with photo booth props. 

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Gratitude: Hanging out with friends

I started the week with multiple productive days at home followed by two productive days in Mbabane.

Now, as I write this, I am waiting to be picked up to start a day with friends, old and new.

First, I’m off to Mlilwane, the local nature reserve, with the students I occasionally teach at school. Such an adventure is happening because students from America are visiting. I don’t have the relationship figured out yet, because the NGO that runs the program the Swazi students participate in is from Oregon, and the students are from Utah State. We will walk some trails, see some wildlife (maybe I will finally see a hippo there; I’ve only ever heard them), and braai for lunch.

Then I’ll head to Ezulwini to drop my bags, meet more friends, dress for winter, and head back to Malkerns. A friend from my Kruger trip is returning home to Germany next week, and this is our last time to hang out. A group of us are going to House on Fire to see the Swazi premier of the movie Liyana, a story about a Swazi child and her adventures that showed at many international festivals the last few months. I’ll be meeting other new and old friends at the movie, which is in an open-air theater that fortunately has a roof–hence the dressing for winter. Then after a late dinner, I’ll finally be able to call  it a day.

Baking for the week

  • I finished the cinnamon rolls I made the week before.

Media for the week

  • My bhuti and I watched The Fantastic Mr. Fox and Astro Boy.
  • I read Stiff: The Curious Lives of Human Cadavers by Mary Roach for book club. I started our second selection, too, and also by Roach, which is about military research.
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Winning PC Swaziland’s Blog it Home contest

I had told my friends in Salt Lake City they would see me next when I won Blog it Home and earned a prize of a inclusive trip to Washington, D.C., for a week of sessions on culture and blogging.

I did end up winning this contest, albeit it was offered in a very different fashion and did not include a trip to the motherland.

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Me and Ambassador Peterson

Blog it Home is a Peace Corps sponsored contest that supports Goal 3, which is all about Peace Corps Volunteers sharing the culture and community they lived with, with Americans. A perfect example of this is a blog. Anyone with a blog could submit and Peace Corps would choose about 20 blogs. From there, online voting would occur to choose the seven or eight winners.

Another PCV here in eSwatini and I really wanted to compete in this contest. We had been talking about it for months, and when June arrived and there was no contest announcement, we were concerned. There had been a lot of cuts to Peace Corps programs thanks to Trump, and we feared this was one of them.

The large-scale Blog it Home contest was canceled. In October, Peace Corps HQ announced that country directors could choose to hold their own local contests and choose their own prizes. Fortunately our CD did choose to hold a contest for Swaziland PCVs. We learned that others did not when Kirby and I started asking around for the prizes being offered in other countries. (Sorry, April! I would have loved to meet you in D.C. if things hadn’t changed this year!)

Long story short, I won Swaziland’s 2017 Blog it Home contest. I won lunch with the ambassador, which I had in March, and two additional vacation days, and the certificate finally arrived a few weeks ago. Staff was able to coordinate a presentation of the certificate at our Close of Service conference. All in all, it was very nice. Apparently my prize also included a night out at a hostel, but this wasn’t made clear to me. Instead, I received a door-to-door ride in a Peace Corps car from the office to my homestead. This was an even better prize than a night out with a shower.

Maybe this year the international contest will occur and I will get to try my luck once again.

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Wednesday photo: Language test

I try not to brag about most things. Especially here in eSwatini, I have had so few successes that there hasn’t been much to brag about anyway.

So today I am going to brag about my language test results.

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The role play was awful. I was asked to have a conversation with my landlord about breaking my lease. Everything else did go pretty well.


I spent 200 hours in tutoring sessions since I moved to my community. My tutor is my best friend in my community and I thoroughly enjoy meeting with her. She has taught me so much and we spent so much time preparing for the Close of Service language exam that we both knew I would pass.

I did not expect such a high score though. But it shows what confidence and feeling prepared does during a language test. It took those 200 hours of lessons and all the other times I have stumbled through siSwati conversations. It took dancing at Umhlanga and being interested in Swazi traditions and culture. It took singing in public to prove to strangers I did dance at Umhlanga. It also took trying to stop comparisons to how I learned German.

The extenders were told that we could retake language exams again next year, but I am worried my siSwati skills will decrease while working at an office in town. And I don’t want to give up my stellar test score.

 

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A moment in my life: Dancing denials

So many entertaining things happen in my life in Swaziland. These are the moments I will want to remember because they make me laugh, and they show insight into my daily routine. These moments are often hard to photograph and usually last only a minute or two. I will start sharing them with you in this occasional series. 

I was working in my garden and went to get a hoe. I went the back way, so my bhuti didn’t see me coming. He was standing at the pump dancing along to the music playing. I called him out on this in siSwati because although he regularly sings loudly, I have never seen him dance. He denied dancing. I told him he definitely was dancing.

I collected the hoe and returned the way I came. My bhuti was dancing again! And again, he denied it!

This was my youngest, out-of-school host brother. He is the person I interact with the least on my homestead, which made this even funnier than it should have been.

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Tips for attending Bushfire

In less than two weeks Swaziland’s famous music festival Bushfire will open its doors for a weekend of international music. Last year I wrote about some of Swaziland’s best places to visit in conjunction with attending the festival; now I have attended and can share numerous tips to make the most of your visit to Swaziland.

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A screenshot from the Bushfire homepage with Sands performing. Can you find me?

Money

The festival is going electronic this year. There will be RFID wristbands you can load with money and then use to pay for food and drink inside the festival. Cash will also be accepted at the craft market.

The lilangeni is equal to the South African rand: E=R.

The weather

It can be relatively warm during the day and then nearly freeze at night. I was wearing short sleeves and skirts during the day and adding pants, gloves, and my puffy at night. If you are camping, be prepared for frosty late nights and early mornings. It’s been getting down to 55*F/13*C the last few nights. It is dark by 5:30 p.m. Rain is possible (it last rained on 12 May this year).

The food

Expect to pay between E75-100 for full on meals in the food court. There was one cafe with limited options inside the campground. The food court restaurants are within the festival gates, so they are not accessible until about 5 p.m. on Friday. The Malandela’s restaurant will be available for dinner on Thursday night. There were some cheaper options inside and you could get a quarter chicken outside for E20. Bring food to save money.

There are a handful of stores within 30 minutes (one grocery store and a large variety of produce are 1 km from the festival grounds) or so if you need to shop.

Alcohol

You can take alcohol into the campsite if you want to drink without paying for it inside the festival. The bars inside the festival are supposed to provide drinking water. There is drinking water available at a tap in the campground. I had no problems taking a water bottle into the festival.

Campground showers and toilets

These 100 percent surprised me in a good way. The facilities were clean and filled with toilet paper. There was no soap last year. There’s a long row of showers and another long row of toilets. Each will have a separate line. The shower line is very long in the morning, so showering at alternative times is recommended. The showers and toilets are open air with a locking door. The showers have a release button on a timer.

Tickets

Online tickets are sold out, but some are still available at brick and mortar locations in Swaziland. Others will be available for resale. Check with me if you are still in need of a ticket.

For everyone camping, you check in across from the Moya Center at the kaMavis stesh. There will be a small structure located next to the camping parking lot. You will receive both your camping and festival bracelets here.

Electricity

You can charge your phone at charging points inside the festival if you bring your own cord. Swaziland uses South African and European outlet shapes.

The lineup

It’s not fully announced, because there are always a few last minute surprises. There are always a few Swazi artists who perform. Sands verbally confirmed to me that he is performing, but he has not been announced. Velemseni is performing, and everyone should go see her. I ate dinner with her at last year’s festival without recognizing her. She’s really cool.

It turns out Velemseni sings a duet with Sands, which was my favorite non-traditional siSwati song even before I knew it is Velemseni singing the female part. You can check out a video of this song below. (It’s from a fan, so the sound isn’t great.)

There are also some well-known South African artists performing, including Ladysmith Black Mambazo.

Check out the lineup here.

Arriving in Swaziland

The wait at the border was miles long last year. The campground will open on Thursday this year to hopefully reduce the border traffic from Joburg.

The khumbi/taxi from Joburg costs E220. It leaves when full from the taxi lot just east of Park Station in the CBD. It’s located in the northernmost row of the lot. It’s another E10 or E15 to the festival from the main bus ranks depending on if you get off in Mbabane or Manzini.

Homestead visits

Anyone is welcome to visit my homestead before or after the festival or on Saturday or Sunday morning during the festival. Make a comment with your email or WhatsApp number and I’ll get in touch.

Special note for PCVs

I know that some PCVs drove to and in Swaziland last year. Peace Corps will admin-sep you for this if they find out.

 

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Gratitude: Close of Service

This past week my friend Kirby visited my homestead again, and we laughed for hours. On the way home from the stesh, he proposed to my tutor and then asked her elder bhuti for permission to marry her, completely in siSwati. I didn’t think anything could be funnier than this, but when we told my family what had just happened, my make decided to instruct Kirby on proper proposal technique. This was even funnier.

The next morning Kirby and I headed to our Close of Service conference at Magadzavane in Mlawula near Siteki in the east. We had two-and-a-half days of sessions to prepare us for ending our service and to acquaint us with Peace Corps career services. We also took our final language tests, although extenders are allowed to retake next year if so desired. I passed with more flying colors than I deserved, although I will admit to totally rocking the exam. Knowing Swazi traditions and songs is the way to go.

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G14’s 32 current volunteers. Goodbyes will begin soon.

The week was nice, but many of us wished for more down time to actually have a break. Alas, that’s not how Peace Corps trainings go.

This week started with attending my first white wedding in Swaziland. The bride is my cousin, although we had never met before. The bridal party got ready at my homestead, so Sunday started off loud. Every other day this week has begun quietly.

 

Baking for the week

  • Cinnamon rolls

Media for the week

  • Still reading Alexander Hamilton.
  • I was gifted a copy of Newman’s Birds of Southern Africa. Of course, I started reading immediately.
  • My younger bhuti and I watched True Grit.
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Gratitude: All the feels from GLOW camp

Another week and another visitor came to kaHloniphile (my house). My friend Sam spent Sunday night here to have an easy trek the following day to GLOW camp. This was my week at camp to do M+E. I wasn’t totally sold at the idea of spending a week with 50 screaming children, but the GLOW girls 100 percent won me over. All those young ladies were so willing to love unconditionally all of the PCVs there and showed such strength throughout the week, that it was impossible to not be moved. I was also given a nickname for the first time in many, many years that I am happy to go by: Gwalagwala. Ligwalagwala is the red feather worn by members of the royal family and the first word to my favorite siSwati song.

I am also extremely grateful for my siSwati tutor. All Swaziland PCVs are allowed and sometimes required to have siSwati tutoring. I have happily met with my tutor 10 hours every month since moving to site. Recently we have focused my lessons on preparing for the siSwati exam all G14ers will take on Tuesday. I am ready to impress my tester with my siSwati song knowledge, and if I have to have a conversation, rather than just sing songs, I am ready for that too.

The test will happen during the G14 Close of Service conference that takes place next week. The presenters are promising the sessions will be useful for extenders, too, so I hope it is a beneficial week. Even if it isn’t, it still is a week of showers, food I don’t have to cook, and dishes I don’t have to wash. It is also the last time my cohort is guaranteed to be together before PCVs start leaving Swaziland in two-and-a-half months.

In other news, my hand, specifically my left ring finger, is still not back to normal. I will meet with the PCMO this next week to have it checked again.

Baking for the week

  • Brownies with Sam

Media for the week

  • Kung Fu Panda 3 with my bhuti.
  • Queen of Katwe with the girls at GLOW camp.
  • I finished the collection of Rumi poems I’ve been reading.
  • At GLOW camp, we listened to Bhizer’s “Gobisiqolo” on repeat for days. I’m impressed this song is still loved more than a year after it became popular in Swaziland. You may recognize it from Black Panther (which you should see if you haven’t!). You can listen to it here.
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Wednesday photo: Dance party

I’m at GLOW camp this week celebrating female empowerment and black girl magic. 

  
Of course, no girls camp is complete without a fair share of dance parties. 

   

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