Wednesday photo: Dirty water filter

Water is my biggest concern at my site, because I have to either go to the river and carry water uphill and back to my house or take the wheelbarrow across the street to a tap about five minutes away. The river water looks clean. The pump water is visibly dirty. Which would you choose? 

Yes, that pump is a WASH failure because my bosisi still choose the river. I choose the pump because I can’t carry 20 liters of water on my head from the river. I do sometimes get to use the cleaner-looking water depending on what my family has stored and whether or not they allow me to work for my water. 

Hence my dirty water filter. All volunteers and trainees in Swaziland have a water filter that is usually plastic and has clean water storage on the bottom and unfiltered on the top. There are two ceramic “candles” that are filled with charcoal that do the cleaning. The ceramic is porous and collects the dirt from the water on its outside, and then after passing through the charcoal, the water drips into the storage space. We were told to clean the candles once they were dirty to speed up the filtering process. I expected this to occur every couple of weeks or so. 

I decided to take apart my filter on Saturday after eight days of use because it was smelly. I discovered this:  

   
My family uses this dirty water for everything, including cooking the food I eat with them. This is how people live here, and this is why I am here. 

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My first day as Ntombi

I was anxious and excited at the same time waiting to meet Babe. I can easily say the main parts to a siSwati greeting at this point, which is the extent of my confident siSwati. I think Babe was anxious too, because he did not say much during our first meeting other than my new name, which I could not pronounce.

Ntombi.

Two days later (June 24) and I am still having a hard time.

Ntombi, pronounced in-tome-bee.

The first afternoon, night, and morning were tense. I felt so much like an outsider. The children did not want to play with me. I could not figure out the family structure (still haven’t). I did not know where I was in relation to all but one of the other trainees in my village. And I definitely did not know what was for dinner.

Ntombi, meaning girl.

I watched how to hand wash clothes. I rinsed the suds off clean dishes. I had rice and beans for dinner. I counted 10 bowls filled with dinner. I was able to serve myself. I watched a couple hours of TV with the children and young adults. I mesmerized the infant with my glasses and shiny earrings. I organized my room and went to bed proud to have survived my first day but with anguish over my lackluster interactions with my host family. The morning was rough because it took 45 minutes to hard boil and cool two eggs for lunch. My smallest pot is very wide, so it required lots of water, which took a long time to boil. I managed to cool the eggs without wasting any water. I ran out of time, so I had a spoonful of peanut butter for breakfast.

Ntombi, pronounced properly when I said goodbye to my sisi (sister) the next morning.

I headed to the end of the driveway to wait for the school bus. Sisi called me back, saying she would wait with me for the bus, so we walked to the stop together. When I looked up to watch for the bus, a beautiful sight was before me.

  
What a beautiful welcome in Swaziland.

 

Reading: Game of Thrones

Trainee count: 38

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Impressions of Swaziland

We have just started our first full week in Swaziland as Peace Corps Trainees. This is the week where we move in with our training host families for about 65 days. Everyone is anxiously awaiting our first meeting tomorrow afternoon, which is Wednesday, June 22.

  • The roads, so far, have been excellent. It sounds like the roads in our training villages are more of what I expected.
  • There really are some mountains here. The one I am looking at now reminds me of the Untersberg in Salzburg. The sun sets just to the south of the mountain, which creates a very beautiful view.
  • Sunset is early. For as far south as we are, there is only about 12 hours of daylight year round. Currently, sunrise is at 6:45 a.m. and sunset is at 5:15 p.m. It is dark before it is time for dinner.
  • Our training facility is very developed. There is hot water and constant electricity. The lights have flickered only once or twice. I had read about some baboon incidents at the training facility in past years, and fortunately, the location was changed a couple years ago and there are no baboons!
  • For it being winter, there is almost no green to be seen. The rains should come in the next few months, which will definitely be needed. All the grass is golden and there has been no apparent hurry to collect the bales. They are still sitting in fields.
  • We have not yet had much corn, even though it is the most widely grown crop here (Babe gave me a roasted ear today, 6/24, for a snack!). We have mainly eaten rice and potatoes with salad, carrots or butternut squash, and stews – a vegetarian stew with baked beans and veggies and another stew with chicken or ground beef (known here as mince meat). There have been frequent bananas and apples, too. Breakfast has included oatmeal, dry cereals and milk; lettuce and tomatoes; chicken, pork, or ham; fried or hardboiled eggs, and toast. There is plentiful tea, coffee, and other hot drinks, too.
  • We have left the training center compound only once for a quick shopping trip, and the walk was much more pleasant than I anticipated. There were limited stares, catcalls, and trash. Yes, there was trash on the side of the road, but nothing like what I have encountered in other places.
  • The grocery store is just like an American store. We went to a Pick and Pay that had everything I looked for. Baking products are easily available and not terribly expensive. There is a full refrigerated and frozen section as well. In addition to food there were also other household items available, such as cleaning, bath and beauty, and paper products. It seems that all manner of clothing is available somewhere in country as well, although it may be out of our price range.
  • My money went reasonably far. I spent E138 (about $10) on tissues, tea, laundry soap, clothespins, hangers, and crackers. This would have cost closer to $20 at home. We have since had a second shopping day E330 (about $22) to get additional products after moving in with our families. I purchased a broom, 20L bucket, four food storage containers, tablecloth, pineapple, pasta, lentils, baking soda, baking powder, bread flour, yeast, cleaning cloths, half a loaf of bread, and a yogurt.
  • The language has a lot of syllable repetition and alliteration. Words are deceivably long because the subject, verb tense, and verb combine to make one work (for instance, ngiyabonga, which means thank you/I am thanking you). Every siSwati word ends in a vowel, which makes a very sign-song-y language. The click has been mostly mastered.  The letters x and q also make clicks from further back in the mouth. These sounds are from the Zulu and Xhosa languages. It’s the dl sound that is the most complicated for me. To make this sound, curl the tip of your tongue up behind your front teeth, open your mouth and keep a straight face, blow air out of your mouth (this gets you to the hl sound), and add some buzzing to get the sound to change.
  • I have yet to encounter screaming children excited to see a white person. I am intrigued to meet my family tomorrow because there are eight young children on my homestead. (Preview: my homestead’s children have become the running and screaming children excited to see me!)

 

I will be setting a second post to post in a few days because I am not sure when I will next have internet. We receive our phones on July 4, so it may be until then!

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Leaving the USA

I woke up on the bus to JFK as we passed the Brooklyn Bridge and dawn was breaking. We have been at the airport since 5 a.m. and our flight leaves at 11:15 a.m. 

It finally feels real. 

Staging was yesterday, where we spent five hours getting to know each other and learning about the Peace Corps and our future roles as volunteers. We were given money to cover our lunch, dinner, and transportation from the Philadelphia airport to our hotel. 

Now the waiting begins. Contact is to be unexpected for three weeks as we adjust to our new surroundings. By that point I will be living with my host family and have many stories to tell. 

After making it through a problematic checkin, it was rewarding to talk to staff and other flyers who were very excited for my volunteer service. 

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Q&A Session: Pre-Departure

As I have been preparing for my departure to Swaziland, I have been asked many questions about my future with the Peace Corps. I will provide below many of these questions and their answers so that you too can know what will happen over the next 27 months.

Where is Swaziland?

It is a small country in southern Africa bordering South Africa and Mozambique.

How long will you be there?

My service includes three months of training and 24 months at my permanent site.

Where will you be living?

For training, I will be living in a small community outside the capitol Mbabane. I do not know where I will be moving to.

What are your living accommodations?

I will be living in a one- or two-room building on a family compound. I will have a lockable door and an outhouse. My training family will provide a bed.

What happens during training?

We will have daily language lessons and then sessions on everything else we will need to know (health, travel, safety, program planning, etc.).

What will be your work assignment?

Our first assignment at our permanent site is to complete a needs assessment. This will determine what the community wants and needs. Projects should be based off these results.

What are you packing? How much room do you have?

As I have not yet packed (yes, I leave in 24 hours), I cannot answer. Suffice to say, my living room floor is covered in items I would like to take. I have to contain my checked bags to 50 pounds each. This will be hard. I am not worried about space.

What do the next couple days look like?

The group is meeting in Philadelphia for an afternoon training before heading to JFK to fly to Johannesburg. Then, we will take a bus to Swaziland. We will stay at a training facility for almost a week before moving in with our training family. There will be lots of learning and studying for a few tests that need to be passed to be sworn in as a full Peace Corps Volunteer at the end of August.

How big is the group?

There are usually about 40 people in a Swaziland training class. There are around 100 Volunteers already working in country.

Can you come home? Do you get vacation?

Yes, I can. Will I come home? Probably not. There are too many sights to see. I will accrue 42 days of vacation time.

What can we send you?

I made a list here: Mail and Visits. It explains everything you need to know about sending me mail or a package, including my address.

How will you be able to communicate?

Most internet access will be via phone through a pay-as-you-go data plan. Data is expensive. There’s an app called WhatsApp that will save me money on texting, so we can communicate with it. We can also be pen pals and write each other letters.

What is the food like?

I cannot say for sure until I have tried it, but the main food is pap, a corn porridge. I will let you know how it is soon.

Will your host family cook for you?

Our training family will cook for us for the first three weeks. Then we will be on our own. I anticipate other arrangements could be made with the family if desired.

What are you looking forward to?

Learning how to properly cut a mango. Also, learning siSwati, making friends, and sharing knowledge back and forth with the locals.

What am I worried about?

Being served chicken feet at my first meal with my training family. (I would happily accept a goat liver as the unusual organ or body part offered.) And what if my families and community do not like me?

Where do you want to travel? 

If there are elephants, I will go. Fortunately, I should not have to go too far.

You look so calm and sound excited. How are you keeping it together?

I know this is the next step in my life and I very deeply want to succeed. It’s my last day in Utah today. Today will be hard.

 

Please let me know if you have any other questions!

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Yes, I’m moving to Swaziland!

Some of you know this, but to the rest of you: I am moving to Swaziland as a community health worker with the Peace Corps! Departure is approaching soon (Monday, the 13th), and packing is in full swing.

Many of you know how much I love to travel and learn from the world. Those of you who have known me in Utah know how much traveling to Ghana to lead a research project as part of my Master of Public Health degree changed my outlook on life. Everywhere I have traveled to and lived has helped make me who I am today, and my travels in the summer of 2014 to Ghana and Kenya opened my eyes to a whole different world.

I had seen rural, underserved parts of the United States before (think the Navajo reservation in southern Utah, where people drink contaminated water on a daily basis) that moved me enough to know that I wanted to do something about their water. I wrote about my first time on the reservation for my application to the public health program at the University of Utah and that visit has stayed with me.

The Mittens

The Mittens, Monument Valley on the Navajo Nation

 

Flash forward another two years and I am leading a study of the storage and disposal of poisons in central Ghana, and for the first time in a long time, I felt like a journalist again. I knew that working in a rural community to help the community members help themselves with community-based participatory research was how I wanted to spend my life. Throw in the love I received from the people I worked with and a handful of incredible elephant experiences, and I was hooked.

Ashaka, my first adopted elephant orphan

Ashaka, my first adopted elephant orphan

As an "obroni" or "white person," I was a magnet for children anywhere I went.

As an “obroni” or “white person,” I was a magnet for children anywhere I went.

Returning to both Ghana and Kenya again the next year where I spent a week testing water and then traveled to a Maasai village where I discussed the benefits of hand washing and a latrine to the family I was staying with, I knew I had found my element.

All dressed up with my Maasai family

All dressed up with my Maasai family

After finishing my degree and half-heartedly applying for a few office jobs in Salt Lake City, I knew I needed to seriously apply to the Peace Corps. I was offered a position as a community health worker in Swaziland in September, but I was not sure that I would pass medical clearance. I spent December through May checking off the Peace Corp’s never-ending list of medical tasks. Departure was finally real when I received notification from my doctor’s office that my last lab was excellent.

I have spent the last three weeks wrapping up my life in Utah and preparing for 27 months in Swaziland. I will update here as often as internet access permits in Swaziland, and expect a few more posts before I depart. Check out the tabs above for more information on Swaziland and mail, and I will post again this week with answers to the most common questions I have been receiving. If you have any questions, please post below.

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Wednesday photo: The Oktoberfest way of saying “I love you”

Oktoberfest will be coming to close at the end of the week. There are many things I will always associate with Oktoberfest and one of them is the Lebkuchen. Lebkuchen is gingerbread, and at Oktoberfest, the gingerbread is made into heart-shaped necklaces with messages of love.

Lebkuchen, or gingerbread hearts, with many ways of saying “I love you” at Oktoberfest.

Of course, your sweetie should give you one, but I could not resist buying one for myself that did not have a message of love. It simply said, “Oktoberfest.”

 

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Changing focus

I have spent the last few days writing about Utah. I have lots to say after living here 11 months and I decided a blog dedicated to traveling Utah would be a better place to show off this beautiful state. I do not want this blog to end, because I have so many stories about so many other places I have traveled to that I hope to someday tell, and I plan to occasionally repost something about Utah here.

So please visit travelin’ utah and read about my drive through the Wasatch admiring the fall colors. Later this week you can read about the Spiral Jetty, an earthen sculpture in the northern part of the Great Salt Lake.

Changing leaves near the Sundance Resort

As always, happy travels!

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Wednesday photo: Curling season begins

The snow level has dropped below 10,000 feet, the ski pass is purchased and curling begins. This means the winter sport season is fast approaching.

Two curling stones from a personal set of 16 with traditional handles.

This season will not end without a run in a bobsled or on a luge or skeleton sled, all of which are possible at the Utah Olympic Park in Park City.

There will be other winter adventures, of course. Keep reading for all the stories to come.

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‘Wicked’ on the cheap

Tonight begins my quest for a $25 “Wicked” ticket. I’m practically perfect in this endeavor and I hope my streak continues this evening.

I’m talking about the “Wicked” lottery that happens between two-and-a-half hours before showtime and two hours before where winners get deeply discounted seats to the musical about Glinda, Elphaba and the Wizard of Oz.

After I won my ticket to “Wicked” on Broadway.

My streak, though, is for every production I saw on Broadway while I lived in Brooklyn in 2008. Most shows on Broadway have a drawing for these tickets, or sell last minute seats or standing room only tickets.

“Wicked” continues this tradition on the road, which I am quite thankful for, because nearly every show in Salt Lake City is sold out, and the tickets that are left are $150-$190 each. Now, do I want to fork out the big bucks or try my luck at a $25 orchestra seat?

The “Wicked” theater in London.

I know I might not succeed, but I live 15 minutes from downtown and have over two week’s worth of performances left to try to attend. I can easily try again until my name is drawn from the hat.

The Land of Oz map on set.

So wish me luck.

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