A royal ride in Salzburg

Gurgling creeks and dogs running through overgrown grass chasing butterflies really do exist. When I would forget that, all it took to remind me of this was a walk or bike ride to Hellbrunner Allee.

This alley is in Salzburg, Austria, my home last year. I was attending the university there, completing my degree and studying German. I also learned much about the history of the area, including this gravel path that was built by royalty in the early 1600s and is still quite grand.

Hellbrunner Allee

It leaves Salzburg in a southerly direction, headed towards Schloss Hellbrunn, a summer palace commissioned by Markus Sitticus, the prince archbishop of Salzburg from 1612 to 1619.

Schloss Hellbrunn

The palace is famous for its trick fountains, which were a wet surprise for the prince archbishop’s guests. Keeping with the theme of surprises, he also didn’t want his visitors to see the palace as they approached, so Hellbrunner Allee leads visitors to the gardens, through which visitors have to pass before finally arriving at the palace entrance.

Trick fountains

From Nonntal, the area of Salzburg just behind the Festung, the fortress that overlooks the Altstadt, you can easily follow the bike path to Akademiestrasse (some of the university’s buildings are located here), where Freisaalweg begins, leading you to Hellbrunner Allee.

Looking back at the school buildings on Akademiestrasse

As soon as you step onto Freisaalweg, the city disappears behind the trees in exchange for the Austrian Alps. A mighty group of mountains rise up from the plain, the closest under five miles away. Shouts from schoolchildren and smells of farms waft by on the breeze.

The Alps

The path first passes the University of Salzburg’s science building and then Schloss Freisaal, a summer residence of Prince Archbishop Pilgrim II from the end of the fourteenth century, and the palace was later situated on an island in a lake now ruled by swans.

That is where I always began my journey, about a quarter of the way into the two-and-a-half mile path.

On a particularly memorable bike ride here, I counted on getting drenched by fierce-looking clouds; instead, as soon as I pedaled onto the alley, sunlight began sprinkling through the interlacing leaves of the centuries-old trees that line both sides.

Behind the trees are pastures that run to houses and farms. Other paths crisscross the fields and intersect Hellbrunner Allee.

The Untersberg

As I continue down the path, I can’t help but think of “The Sound of Music.” It’s hard for me, as someone who grew up watching the movie, to ignore it when I’m in town. I think of running through the pastures, twirling around singing that the hills are alive with the sound of music.

But that song doesn’t last long as there is a true movie sight on Hellbrunner Allee.

The house that was used for the front of the von Trapp family home is Schloss Fronburg, now a part of the Mozarteum, Salzburg’s music university. You can easily strut down Hellbrunner Allee swinging an imaginary guitar case, imitating Maria while she sings that she has confidence in sunshine and rain.

Schloss Frohnburg

Pedaling further I pass other palaces, cross a couple brooks and watch all types of people out enjoying the scenery, some on bicycles, some on horses, others walking alone, with children or friends, or with dogs.

Too soon do I arrive at the end of the alley. I’m not ready yet to give up the peace I always find on Hellbrunner Allee, so I ride into Schloss Hellbrunn’s expansive gardens, dismount and park my bike, and then begin my search for the perfect place to continue to relax.

For other ways to relax at Schloss Hellbrunn, there are many choices. You could take the tour of the trick fountains, chancing getting sprayed with water. You could also climb the miniature mountain on the premise and view the grounds from above. Or you could relax in the cafe with a traditional Austrian coffee like a Melange or a Verlängerter.

The Untersberg from the viewpoint

Schloss Hellbrunn grounds from viewpoint


“Sound of Music” lovers also do not want to miss the actual gazebo from the movie located on the grounds. It was shipped to Austria from Hollywood after it was used in the movie.

Bike rentals are available at the train station or for a spot closer to the beginning of the path to the palace, rent bikes at Mozartplatz in the Altstadt.

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Postcard arrival: the Netherlands

This postcard from the Netherlands that I received Saturday shows all things I love about this country. Top left is a motorcycle painted in the style of Delft pottery, top right is a group of bicycles, bottom right are stroopwafeln (a waffle cut in half and filled with caramel), and bottom left is a vase of tulips.

The note on the other side of the card was exciting, too, because it is from an eighth-grade English class, looking for English practice. They asked me to write back and tell them things about Ohio and my time in their country. I’m so excited to do this!

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Postcard arrival: Belgium

Yesterday I received a postcard from Emma in Liege, Belgium. Liege is in the French-speaking part of the country and is near the Dutch and German borders. Just think of all the languages you could know if you lived there! I haven’t been to Belgium, but one day I would definitely like to go to Bruges and Brussels.

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Postcard arrival: China

After a seemingly long time, I have received my latest postcrossing postcard, a stunning view of Wulingyuan Scenery. This is in southwestern China, near the area of the giant pandas.

China seems like a daunting trip to me, full of a language I don’t know and food I would never choose to eat. But, when I come across things like this postcard, it shows me the beautiful scenery there.

I had another run-in with beautiful Chinese scenery this week in an e-mail from my mother. It was full of pictures of the “Red Land” near Kunming. Here’s a photo from roamchina.com that shows what I’m talking about:

The soil is red due to some chemical reactions, and it looks absolutely stunning. Someday, perhaps, I will become a bit less afraid of China.

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Mansfield, Ohio: Biblical wax figures, a reformatory, carousel and coney dogs

Last week I went on an adventure that included all of the things in my headline.

I do not know much about Mansfield, but it looked a lot like Youngstown but has some very interesting tourist spots. Really, Mansfield is a great combination of off-the-beaten path attractions. How many collections of biblical wax figures can there be, especially when coupled with a former reformatory, carousel and coney dog shop?

My day started at Biblewalk, an attraction at Diamond Hill Cathedral. Visitors can choose from four tours: The Life of Christ, Miracles of the Old Testament, Museum of Christian Martyrs and Heart of the Reformation. I selected the Life of Christ tour, for $4.95 with my AAA card. I did not know how the tour would work, other than it was self guided. Actually, it occurs in a group if there are others present, and there were. I was amazed. I had no idea of the popularity of the museum, but low and behold, there were 10 people on my tour, and after some basic instructions from an employee and more in-depth instructions to our self-appointed group leader, we were off on our hour-long tour of Jesus’ life.

The tour was set up with stops at mini stages with painted walls, lighting and biblically dressed wax figures. The narration came from a recording that was played sometimes automatically and sometimes by the press of a button.

The first stop included booming thunder and the booming voice of God. The tour was quite serious, but when we got to the scene where Jesus brought a girl back to life just by touching her, we laughed, because the wax figure actually breathed! Her stomach went from still to rising. The next stop was also memorable, because it was Jesus preaching to a group of children, but these were no biblically dressed kids. There was a Native American girl, a Dutch girl with a pointy, white hat and yellow clogs, an Amish boy, a girl in a Spanish dancing outfit and a handful of girls in kimonos. I don’t really think it happened that way, and we all seemed a bit puzzled, but then it was time to move on to Jesus’ death.

The stone moved when it was time for Jesus to rise again, and then, Jesus is floating in the clouds and the recording blasts Handel’s “Hallelujah Chorus.”

Once the tour was complete, I had to skedaddle, because it was time to get a ticket for the prison tour. Conveniently, both the Biblewalk and the Reformatory are on the same street, so it’s less than a 5 minute drive between them.

On weekdays, tours are available of the whole building at 2 p.m., and tickets are sold beginning at 1:30 p.m. I didn’t know if there was a limited number of tickets, so I wanted to be there as early as possible. There ended up being about 50 people on the tour, but as the tour progressed, I came to realize that most people in the group didn’t care what the guide said, so I didn’t have to fight the crowd to be close enough to him to hear.

Upon entering the now glass-enclosed central congregating area that is used for weddings and parties, I got my first glimpse of the cell area. The brick walls are covered in peeling paint and everything looked quite run-down. I couldn’t imagine that we were actually going in there, but we did after hearing some facts about the building.

The first prisoners (only young men ages 16-21) arrived in 1896. There were a total of 156,000 prisoners in the history of the prison. It cost $3 million to build and today, would cost $15 million to repair to its original luster. The West Cell Block is different from the East Cell Block because the West’s cells are built of concrete and steel, but the East’s cells are built of only ½-inch pinched steel. Neither have any supports, so the five floors in the West and six floors in the East, which makes it the largest free-standing cell block in the world (it can hold 1,212 inmates at a time), are quite imposing. In 1970, the East became maximum security, including housing death row prisoners on the lowest level. The building was condemned in 1983 but continued operating until 1990.

We were led into the East Cell Block, climbed up a couple of flights of stairs and walked down the gangway in front of all of the cells. This was really quite amazing. The whole time I felt like I was in another decade, with little lighting and dark and dingy cell blocks, and I almost thought I could find a prisoner still locked up in his cell. It was one of the strangest things I’ve ever experienced.

Next, we toured the library, still with books lying around and an incredible amount of debris. In the 20 years since this prison closed, nothing very noticeable has been done to it, leaving it in intense disarray. Honestly, I was worried for my safety a couple of times. Lights and pieces of plaster hang precariously from the ceiling. Floors are uneven and the debris isn’t cordoned off. How is this up to code?

Regardless, we continued on, walking past death row and then into an area with some “Air Force One” and “Shawshank Redemption” props. Both movies were partially filmed on prison grounds.

We continued our tour in through the hole, which is solitary confinement, and then through the West Cell Block, the chapel and then the administration area, which was falling apart as much as the rest of the building. You can see the warden’s office from “Shawshank” that includes the desk, telephone and hole in the wall from the safe. The pane of glass is also still missing from the window that was broken after Andy hijacked the record player. You can also see the real warden’s office and the living quarters for the family of the warden.

To see a bit more about the prison, watch my video below, and then continue reading about Richland Carrousel Park and Coney Island Diner.

Richland Carrousel Park is in downtown Mansfield, a couple blocks from the main square. It’s hard to miss, with horses out front and carousel music playing.

Riding the carousel costs 75 cents, a small fee for a step back in time. I was the only person above the age of 5 riding the carousel, but that doesn’t matter. I don’t remember the carousel in Sandusky’s carousel museum, but I’m sure both Sandusky’s and Mansfield’s carousels are equals in greatness. This carousel was beautiful and well cared for. Really, it was immaculate, which was such a change from my earlier stop at the Reformatory.

Part of the reason this carousel is so lovely is because it was built new in 1991. It was the first new, hand-carved carousel to be operated in the U.S. since the early 1930s. There are 30 horses, 22 menagerie figures (like ostriches, cats and rabbits) and two chariots. Each figure was designed, carved and painted in the style of the early 1900s carousels.

Check out my video below, and then read on about the Coney Island Diner.

For dinner, I stopped at the Coney Island Diner, across the street from the carousel. The diner was a step back in time, just like the other activities from my day. The coney dog didn’t wow me, but the fries were delicious. I ended my meal with a root beer float, an antiquated drink for the end to my antiquated day.

To see more pictures, click the photo below.

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Fun on the Fourth

One of America’s Fourth of July traditions has always perplexed me, and every year when the holiday rolls around, I get to thinking about it.

Why do we love Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture so much? It wasn’t written for us because it commemorates Russia’s defense against Moscow from Napoleon.

But it doesn’t matter, because we love it and it is played yearly at Fourth of July concerts. (And it just happens to be one of my favorite pieces of music.)

For year’s I’ve heard the Packard Band in Warren, Ohio, play the 1812 Overture at their Fourth of July concert. The show has been good, which is always followed by fireworks, but the band has no strings. A couple years back I heard the 1812 Overture played by the Toledo Symphony Orchestra at a concert, with antiphonal brass from the Toledo Glassmen, which was glorious.

And then in summer 2008, when I was in New York City, I attended the New York Symphony Orchestra’s Central Park Fourth of July concert. Sixty thousand people packed into the Great Lawn for a night of music. But for the first half of the concert, everyone talked and grilled and were all together noisy. I called my mother at intermission, complaining about the noise. It was unbelievable.

Then, as the second half began with the 1812 Overture, everyone started shushing each other. Again, I was stunned.

This year was good, too. I got my city fireworks last night and then had neighborhood fireworks on the beach tonight. We could also see Huron’s, Cedar Point’s, Kelleys Island’s and Put-in-Bay’s fireworks, as well. It was a pretty good night.

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Dublin photos

Dublin, Ireland, was not the city of my dreams. It wasn’t even close.

I had heard good things about it, and with an easy RyanAir flight from Salzburg, I decided I would squeeze Dublin in between London and Athens on my February 2009 break. This did not work out so well.

The weather was terrible. The sky in each of my Dublin pictures is foreboding of the nightmare to come. It started as rain and turned into snow, shutting down the Dublin airport and stranding thousands of us. I didn’t have time for this because Athens was waiting for me the next day. I managed to escape Dublin on one of a handful of flights that left the following day.

So essentially, weather made my time in Ireland miserable. Maybe I will give it another chance someday, but probably not until E~something, that wild Iceland volcano, rests again.

There were a couple of OK things in Dublin. The Museum of Modern Art was nice and restaurants serve hamburgers. And there was a Subway.

The pictures I have here are minimal, but that’s because that’s how I think of this trip. Many of my friends have enjoyed Dublin, so don’t let me stop you. My only suggestion is to not go in the winter because Dubliners don’t know how to deal with snow and ice.

And definitely, don’t let my rave reviews stop you from checking out these pictures. Just click the photo below.

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Aperschnalzen, or Austrian whipcracking

In Salzburg last month, when I watched the Salzburger Dult Festzug, the Salzburg Traditions Festival’s opening procession, a couple of the acts included whipcracking.

To no surprise at all, Aperschalzen in Salzburg Province and Goaßlschalzen in Bavaria, Germany, are rooted in tradition and are competitive sports.

First, you should watch this video of mine so you can see what I am talking about:

What I have learned about whipcracking, I have learned by reading in German, so I hope what I say is accurate.

Whipcracking most often occurs in February before Lent begins. The most accepted purpose of whipcracking is to drive out winter spirits. Through noise, the evil powers of the gloom and cold will be scared off. Another interpretation is that through the noise of the whip cracking, the the sleeping crop buried under layers of snow will be brought back to life. Either way, the noise, to Austrians and Bavarians, is a good thing.

The whipcracking isn’t necessarily done in the present day for these reasons, but more as a continuation of what was done before. Now, there are competitions and clubs. A Schnalzerpasse, which I will translate as a team of whippers, is usually composed of nine men, and if not nine, some other odd number. Usually the smallest team member is the one to begin the group. He tells the whippers to begin by calling, “Aufdrahdi, oani, zwoa, drei dahin geht’s” (or “Untwist you, one, two, three let’s go”). One after another, they whip, each making the crack nine or 11 times.

For a more in-depth look at whipcracking, check out this video from the Salzburg newspaper from this past February. It’s of a competition in Maxglan, which is a part of Salzburg city, and there is a wide variety of teams participating, even a couple of female teams. By watching, you’ll also get to hear the Salzburg dialect of German, and even after a year of hearing people speak this way, it at least sounds like German to me but is still terribly difficult to comprehend. So, enjoy!

And I must acknowledge the wonderfully descriptive Schnalzen website for so thoroughly explaining whipcracking.

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Memories of spring in Europe

A month ago I posted my Notes on Croatia, a list of memories from my long weekend there.

Finally, a month after my spring fling in Europe, I’ve gathered my notes into something respectable enough to post here. I wanted to keep a good list that would need no editing, like my Croatia list, but it just did not work out this time. The things I wrote down were anything that caused me to laugh, smile or frown or really got me to stop and think. They are things people said to me and songs I had stuck in my head.

And now, my Notes on Europe:

  • The flight attendant on my flight from Toledo to Detroit: From take off to touch down, we will be in the air for 18 minutes.
  • For 6½ hours in Charles DeGaulle Airport in Paris, after my flight was diverted there from Amsterdam due to volcanic ash, all I could think of was one song from “Beauty and the Beast”: Bonjour, good day, how is your family … I need six eggs!
  • The sign in the crypt of the Capuchins filled with the bones of Capuchin friars at the Church of the Immaculate on via Veneto in Rome: What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be.
  • After drinking water from a fountain at Palatine Hill: If I die later it’s because I drank from this fountain. (After many drinks later from fountains across Rome, I was still alive and well, and all these fountains provided great tasting, cold water.)
  • The waiter at lunch and the waiter at dinner in Rome: Solo? Why are you in Rome alone?
  • I did not have to take my sunglasses off on the subway in Rome. Fantastic.
  • Things in Rome I loved: Getting up early, seeing the monuments lit up at night, having a brioche and coffee with the locals, pure chocolate gelato, eating real Italian food, talking to Nedko Solakov at Galleria Borghese, the Apollo e Daphne statue by Bernini, and the Trevi Fountain.
  • Vienna always works its magic on me, because after at least seven trips to Vienna, I still have not seen Karlskirche.
  • Flight flight arrived late in Amsterdam, so I had little time to get to my trans-Atlantic connection. When running through an airport, I will always sing: Run, run Rudolf / Run, run as fast as you can, which is what was playing when the McCallisters ran through the airport in “Home Alone.”
  • What Laura had to say about gnomes: Young people in Austria make fun of them. That’s why the stores don’t have them.
  • There was an wonderfully large selection of good movies on the airplanes across the Atlantic. I watched “Invictus,” “Precious,” “A Serious Man,” “A Single Man” and “It’s Complicated.”
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postcrossing: the postcard crossing project

Just before Memorial Day, I signed up for a postcard project called postcrossing. By joining postcrossing, you agree to mail postcards to the addresses you are given, and then other people receive your address, so you get postcards, too.

In short, this is a perfect match for me. One, I love mail. Two, I love postcards. Three, receiving postcards from complete strangers around the world is totally awesome.

You know when your postcard has arrived because each card comes with a code that you have to register. Once a card you sent is registered, you can mail another.

At first, I was a little worried because I mailed my postcards the Tuesday after Memorial Day and the first one arrived on June 7th. I thought I should receive a card within 10 days of that or so. When I hadn’t, I was worried. I was not sure if I should mail any more postcards because four of mine had been registered by then and I had received none. I finally decided to mail four more cards in good faith.

This past Tuesday was a party in my mailbox. I had three cards, and then one more on Wednesday and another on Friday. My faith has been restored and I will continue to participate.

Here are my postcards, which are now decorating another wall in my apartment. If only you could see my humble abode, would you realize how much I do love postcards.

Consider this: I have a section of wall dedicated to postcards of my favorite pieces of art, one section with postcards from the countries and cities I visited during my year in Salzburg plus a map with all the cities pinpointed, two more sections with postcards showcasing the places I visited prior to my year abroad, and one final wall with postcards from my friends this past year. I also have a shoebox full of the hundreds of other postcards I have purchased on my travels since I was a child.

So enjoy this mini tour of the world, and as I receive postcards from postcrossing, I’ll post them so you too can see a bit more of the world.

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