Traveling for glass

I will never forget the day my parents took my brother and I to Oglebay, West Virginia. Justin and I were complaining that we were not going anywhere over the 2004 winter holidays, and then our parents had to pick a destination in Wheeling, West Virginia.

We probably complained the whole drive there, or more likely, we just sat in the van pouting. It was a typical Alison and Justin moment.

The Oglebay Institute’s Glass Museum was our first stop. From the moment I entered the gallery, I was enchanted. I actually listened to and learned from the audioguide. I admired the glass but did not really think about its production. I also watched in awe at the glassblower, who even swung a piece of hot glass around in the air. I asked questions and learned a little, because I wanted to know how the colors were made for the glass, and a few years later, I am still not positive how frit is made.

In the gift shop, I bought my first piece of decorative glass, a bowl made in Oglebay’s studio. I use this bowl often and it sits on my coffee table. And when I think about it, it’s the only piece of decorative glass I have purchased. I bought jewelry and wine glasses in Murano and a variety of drinking glasses and a pitcher from Libbey Glass in Toledo. It is the only one I have so far purchased because what I wanted I made myself.

The enchantment and awe I experienced in Oglebay I remember and often thought about when I would visit the Glass Pavilion at the Toledo Museum of Art. Admiring glass is one thing, but actually knowing and understanding how pieces are created is totally different.

These are my three favorite pieces at the Glass Pavilion, and the first is the first Dale Chihuly chandelier I saw:

So when I found out Bowling Green State University had a glass blowing program and no art requirements were necessary to begin the class, I signed up for a beginner class the fall of my junior year.

If there ever was a class where the final product is a result of your own real sweat and work, this was it — the furnaces are kept at a balmy 2100 degrees. Watching my teacher, Steve, make things that we were to replicate was terrifying. First of all, he did not leave out the horror stories of injuries and projects gone wrong, which made him terrifying. And seeing the skill go into these designs was incredible. How could I ever do this, I thought on a daily basis. But by doing, I learned, and if I did not try, I did not progress.

Flash forward to last year, when I was studying in Salzburg. My first big trip without the group was to Venice, Italy, so I could go to Murano and watch the glassblowers in the place where glass blowing started.

With connections from my other glass teacher, Scott, I went to the Dino Rosin studio where I got to watch his son and head gaffers finish up a piece. They gave us a tour of the facility, including the cold shop and gallery. Being there was a fantastic experience and the whole island of Murano was absolutely charming. And there was glass everywhere across the environs of Venice.

I have continued to travel for glass. If a museum had a glass exhibit, I wanted to see it. I saw the glass at Victoria & Albert in London and encountered another Chihuly chandelier (left).

A couple of weeks ago I went to Columbus to hear Lino Tagliapietra speak, the creator of the red vase to the right. He and Chihuly are at the top of the glassblowing pack, and I adore both of their works, mostly because they make me wonder how they were created because, like for the Tagliapietra vase to the right, I can’t even begin to describe how it was created because it is so far beyond my skill level.

I have a special love for Chihuly’s art because I feel much more of a connection with 3D pieces that interact with the space around it.

An example of this is the Franklin Park Conservatory in Columbus and its collection of Chihuly pieces, which I just visited Monday. In the lobby and atrium of the museum there are decorative pieces hanging from the ceiling or attached to the walls, but in the actual gardens, his pieces are interspersed with the plants, strategically designed and placed to interact with the surroundings.

Take the “Persian Ceiling” (left) that was in a rock enclosure and was symbolizing the shells and sea creatures that would be on the sea floor. Or the “Green Grass,” (right) green glass spikes in the Palm House.

The most amazing section of the gardens was the Butterfly House, a warm habitat for a variety of butterflies and Chihuly sculptures. There are orbs floating in the water, spikes in the forest and a giant tower of red, orange and yellow flourishing spirals and curlicues. The butterflies land on them (left), interacting with the sculptures as well. 

My jaw dropped and I gasped when I entered the room (right), amazed at the glass and even further amazed at the butterflies. I didn’t know that there was an exhibit to this magnitude on display, and the floating orbs and spikes were glass displays of Chihuly’s I have often seen pictured but not seen for myself.

For more pictures of the display at the Franklin Park Conservatory, click the photo below. And if you have any glass stories or favorite pieces of decorative glass, please share.

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Athens and Santorini photos

In February 2009 I went to Athens and Santorini with two of my friends. Greece was the most awe-inspiring of all my trips. My journey there was rough (missed flight due to canceled flight in Dublin + spent the night in the Dublin airport), and arriving there was glorious. The weather was a fantastic 60 to 70 degrees and the tourists were few and far between.

I had heard stories about Athens being disagreeable and unpleasant, but that is not the Athens I met. Santorini was also a beautiful experience, except that the tourist attractions were closed and scary dogs followed us everywhere. But everything we saw in both places was easy on the eyes, whether it was man-made monuments of almost impossible grandeur or perfect sunsets seen from the cliffs of Santorini.

So take a look at these photos and meet my Athens and Santorini. Click either of the photos below to take you to the entire gallery.

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My Gartenzwerg-Tour, or my hunt for a garden gnome

I thought that in Salzburg, one would be able to easily find a garden gnome. This was definitely not the case.

I guess I was a bit mixed up about my shopping expectations. I thought I would need to try on hundreds of dirndls to find the right one, and it took only one dress in one store. I also thought that I would be able to easily find a couple garden gnomes at the home improvement stores, and again, I was wrong.

I thought they would be easy finds because I had seen them in so many windows and yards during my year in Salzburg. I even found this wonderful postcard of gnomes in Berlin. These people have to buy them somewhere, but I am not sure where that is.

This quest began with one new garden gnome already in my possession, thanks to a wonderful surprise from Laura. Named Wilhelm, he’s white porcelain with a red hat.

Our first stop was the new Bauhaus near the mall. This was a major fail with no lawn ornaments to be found. Next, we went to bauMax, which had a selection of decorations, but again, no gnomes.

On our way to the mall, Laura spied a blue-hatted gnome at a flea market in the Altstadt. I didn’t think we needed to stop because I was so confident about finding a gnome, but since we were running out of stores, we headed there and found not one, but two gnomes for sale. I rushed up to the table to inspect them, and then I know a look of dejection crossed my face. These were the most hideous and dirty gnomes I had ever seen. I would have had to wash them and sanitize them before I could have packed them in my suitcase. Sadly, I did not buy them.

We continued our hunt, stopping at the floral stores in the tunnels underneath the apartments between Getreidegasse and Universitätsplatz, again to no avail.

I finally gave up. Laura gave up too. It was not that big of a deal because I knew when I returned to the states, I could buy more here. And Laura did find Wilhelm for me.

We started meandering through the Altstadt to walk up to Nonnberg Abbey. We were just about to start the incline up the hill when Laura called my name from behind me.

She found more gnomes.

There were brushed silver and red, foot-tall gnomes at one of the tourist stands. This wasn’t the gnome I had in mind, but Jacques, as I’ve decided to call him, is just perfect.

Although the search was long, in the end, it made a good story and I still came home with some Austrian gnomes, and that’s all I asked for.

And finally, a picture of my gnome friends:

Jacques, Wilhelm, Cedric and Karl

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My Dirndl-Tour

There were many things I wanted out of my trip to Salzburg and Rome, but what I wanted the most was a dirndl. A dirndl is the traditional female dress of Bavaria in southern Germany and Austria. It is composed of a dress, blouse and apron. There are many different styles because each village has its own traditions. To see some of these styles, check out my Salzburger Dult photos.

After compiling a list of, oh, 21 dirndl shops in Salzburg and another five in Rosenheim in Germany, my friend Laura and I were ready to embark on our grand tour of dirndls.

Early Tuesday morning, before starting my journey to Rome, we met at Cafe Tomaselli for coffee and then headed to the Getreidegasse, a quaint street of even quainter shops in Salzburg’s Altstadt, and the location of many dirndl and Trachtenmode (traditional dress) shops.

We had already crossed two stores off the list the night before, because the dirndls in their windows cost upwards of €1,000, and I was hoping for something a bit more affordable.

Some stores on the Getreidegasse were possibilities and others were complete misses. A couple were having sales or had a special sale section of the store. Then, at the end of the street, we turned left to go to the Herbert von Karajan Bushaltestelle, and there was Moser, with a beautiful, blue and red dirndl in the window for under €100.

Unfortunately, the store wasn’t yet open because it was only 9 a.m. Three busy days later I return to the store immediately after disembarking the train from Vienna on my return from Rome.

Laura and I were perusing the dirndls and I kept returning to this bright pink dirndl with a jumping-deer print; buffed, silver buttons; and a shiny, forest green Festtag (festive day, like a holiday, Sunday or the day of a party) apron.

I tried it on, thinking it was a bit too tight, but both Laura and the clerk helping us said it is supposed to be tight and not really comfortable. And then, to my surprise, after the clerk rearranged the shoulder straps, she started to rearrange my blouse by pulling it down and more or less saying that I wasn’t showing off enough.

It did not bother me that she did this because I did not know how to wear a dirndl, but the forwardness of the clerk, unless I missed her ask if she could straighten me out because she was saying a lot of things I did not understand, was what shocked me. What I mean is, is that Austria is a country of formalities and rules for everything from wear to tie the apron on your dirndl (back for a widow, left for unmarried and right for married) to how to hold your silverware and how to toast with different styles of beer glasses. It also did not bother me because I was basking in the glory of finding my dirndl.

What I liked best about this whole experience was that I tried on only one dirndl. I was ready to try dresses on at over 20 shops and go to Germany if necessary until I found the right one, but I knew the pink one with jumping deer was right and I did not want to consider any others. Really, I couldn’t have asked for anything better.

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The Top 5: Wows in Rome

It took a while for me to be awestruck in Rome, but by the time I departed, Rome was well imprinted on my mind. I had to spend time with the city, get to know it, see more of it.

In the end, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Rome and need to return with more than two days.

All of my top five “wow moments” in Rome fall into the category of impressive architecture, design and art, which makes sense because Italy was home to men like Michelangelo and Da Vinci, Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus, Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Caravaggio.

5. The ancient architecture of the Forum and Colosseum

The Colosseum wasn’t much different than I expected, but just seeing it was thrilling. The fact that it is still standing shows the skill of the ancient Romans and when I stopped to admire it, its sturdiness is visibly apparent. The Forum, which is just west of the Colosseum, is more of the same. The remains are fewer, but that is because not all the buildings here were built out of brick. The ones that were are still there. The Curia was the house of the Senate and the acoustics there were incredible. One of the stranger sights I saw was this column that is balancing a corner of a building and nothing else. How has it not fallen over?.

4. St. Peter’s Basilica’s dome

From St. Peter’s Square the size of the dome is disguised. From inside the church and from far away, like on top of Castel Sant’Angelo or at the Pincio Terrace, the size of the dome is astounding. From the floor of the church to the top of the external cross, the dome soars 448 feet — the tallest in the world. The dome is also worth the climb. First, an elevator takes you to the roof of the church, where you can look out on St. Peter’s Square from behind the saints. But what really wowed was sound coming from below me when I was standing inside at the edge of the dome looking down on the altar. The choir was singing a song that sounded so wonderful a couple hundred feet above them. The words just floated up and around, and again, I was marveling at acoustics.

For those not afraid of 320 of the most claustrophobic stairs I have ever climbed, you can keep going up, following a tiny sign pointing to the cupola, taking you to a 360-degree view of Vatican City and Rome. As I was climbing, I was again impressed with another architectural feat. I’m not sure how those stairs and ramps really fit between the walls of the dome, but they do, even when you have to walk with your head tilted to the right due to the curve of the dome.

3. The view from the Capitoline Museum’s terrace

Of the handful of views I had across Rome, this was my favorite. The museum sits on one of the seven hills of Rome in the center of the city, giving a perfect vantage point for all directions. Anyone can access the terrace because there’s a stairway on the southwest side of the building that leads right up to the cafe. I admired the view of the Forum and the city center all the way to St. Peter’s in the afternoon, and knew I had to come back to see a sunset from there. When I did, it was the Italian sunset I had always dreamed of, with golden sunbeams casting a warm glow across the entire city.

2. Trevi Fountain

When I could hear the gushing water from a block or two away, I knew I was approaching something amazing. When I finally saw the fountain, I just stopped and smiled and tried to soak it all in. I love the sound of flowing water, and the Trevi Fountain sounds like a river rushing by. I could have sat on the benches and stared dreamily at the fountain all night. The fountain is entirely different during the day. It’s not as romantic, it’s not as loud, it’s not just you and a lovely fountain. During the day, the fountain is swamped with people vying for their turn to stand at the edge to thrown in their coins.

1. Galleria Borghese

I had high hopes for this museum and its Bernini sculptures and I wasn’t let down. The number of visitors is strictly controlled, so the visit alone is a pleasant experience. Add in one main sculpture per room, and you start to wish all museums are like this. And there isn’t glass keeping you from truly seeing the art or balustrades keeping you at a distance. This museum contains sculptures and paintings from the Borghese family collection. When the tides turned against them, they sold their house, grounds and art collection to Italy and the museum was brought to life. One of the sculptures is of Pauline Bonaparte by Antonio Canova. She is reclining on a settee and neither she nor the fabric look like they are made of marble. Another, which turned out to be my favorite, is “Apollo and Daphne” by Bernini. I was so impressed when I noticed distinct nails on Apollo’s digits. Not that I expected them to be missing, but that I could look that closely at such a work of art, taking my time to notice the more intricate details.

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Friday in Columbus: A food feast

Last Friday I went to Columbus to hear a Venetian glass blower speak, but I’m not going to write about that.

I am going to write about all the wonderful food I consumed that day, courtesy of my fine friends who live in Columbus and were quite fortunately not so busy that they couldn’t entertain me.

First up is the North Market. This market contains 35 different eateries from all over the world and with all kinds of foods. Just walking around is a feast for the senses. I finally settled on mac & cheese from Pastaria, a mini Belgian waffle with strawberries and cream from Taste of Belgium and artisan ice cream from Jeni’s.

The mac & cheese was delicious because it was different from what I make at home or would get from a restaurant. Penne pasta was used, along with an orange cheese and a white cheese that tasted like Gorgonzola. It was topped with bread crumbs.

I haven’t been to Belgium so I can’t say what a waffle is like there, but this was different from American Belgium waffles that are prepared just like regular waffles. This was different because it was a bit hard and also because it had some sort of  syrup dribbled all over it. And then the cream was home made and the strawberries were fresh.

And the ice cream. I love ice cream and I don’t know that I’ve ever had bad ice cream, but I do know that I have had some pretty fantastic ice creams. Two gelatos from Italy come to mind: Nutella gelato in Venice and pure chocolate in Rome. Also, the rum raisin from Coney Island in Brooklyn, N.Y. would win a prize in my book. And mint chocolate chip is my favorite flavor, and Toft’s in Sandusky, Dietsch’s in Findlay and Katie’s Korner in Warren all do a pretty marvelous job.

But at Jeni’s I couldn’t compare any of these because Jeni’s doesn’t have run-of-the-mill flavors. Jeni’s has flavors I’ve never heard of that change with the season and fresh produce. It was very difficult making a decision, but I finally settled on three flavors: Riesling poached pear, Meyer lemon blueberry and kona and stout. Wonderful is all I have to say about my experience at Jeni’s.

All too soon it was dinner time. My friend Janice asked if I wanted to have a tasty hamburger, and of course I said yes. Her choice was the Blue Danube on High Street north of the OSU campus. The Dube was really quite fitting because Janice and I are friends from Salzburg and the other two friends I hung out with that day were also German class friends. At the Dube, you can order your burger with whatever kind of cheese you want, so Janice got feta and I stuck with American. This burger was quite delicious and came with crinkle cut fries. After the burger, we had dessert because this dive of a restaurant has pie. I had Boston creme and Janice chose French silk. Mmmmm.

I couldn’t move by the time dinner was over, but good food days are worth it.

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Salzburger Dult

When I was in Salzburg, I just happened to be in town for the Salzburger Dult, a festival showcasing the traditions of the counties surrounding Salzburg in Salzburgerland. These counties, Pongau, Pinzgau, Tennengau, Flachgau and Lungau, were represented by groups from villages dressed in their traditional dress playing traditional instruments and songs. Some were also dressed as if they were going to a wedding. Everyone came in horse-drawn wagons and the horses were elaborately dressed, as well.

After the parade, a festival would be held for the week at the convention center in Salzburg, complete with music, beer, pretzels, ladies in dirndls and men in lederhosen, and rides.

Essentially, at the parade, I was running around like crazy trying to capture everything on camera, because I can tell you about the sights and sounds, but really, I want to show you.

First up is a video of the beginning of the Festzug and its entrance to Residenzplatz, along with other music from the two marching bands.

Second up is a movie showcasing the individual bands that were performing while the Festzug was stopped at Residenzplatz.

And thirdly, a few pictures of the event. For more, check out my photo page under Salzburger Dult.

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A photo update and some news

I have spent the past couple of days updating photos on my photos page. I wanted to share my photos from my trip (Rome’s up) and also include some Croatia photos because I have so many more than what I included with my earlier post. I will periodically upload more, especially Salzburg photographs. Also up on my photo page are Brastislava, Venice, Sound of Music, Neuschwanstein and Oktoberfest photos.

Due to Greece and the European Union’s economic crisis, there has been a lot of news I’ve seen on the AP wire about the state the EU is in and what its future may or may not be. One article of interest is about Croatia’s future and how it has been working to meet the criteria for EU entrance but is now wondering if it will ever be able to become an EU member. You can read about that here: Ashton seeks to reassure Balkan nations of future EU entry. Another story of interest is whether or not the EU can stay together through this crisis. Here is that story: Can the EU survive Europe’s crisis?

And a final, fun story: Venice wants to attrack mosquito-eating bats.

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Memories from Croatia

One year ago this weekend, I was sitting on the beach in Dubrovnik, Croatia, basking in the sunshine and admiring the beautiful water and the ancient, walled city. This was the only trip I took the entire year whose purpose was to relax, which is a good thing because it took almost an entire day to arrive.

My train left Salzburg mid-morning and took eight hours to arrive in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. I bought a bus ticket to Dubrovnik and checked my bag and then headed out to explore the town. Later that evening, I boarded my bus for an eight-hour trek through Croatia to its southernmost tip and arrived at one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I also spent a night in Split, also on the coast, about halfway between Dubrovnik and Zagreb.

This trip, like no other, inspired me. I collected these inspirations in a notebook and I just rediscovered them before I left for Salzburg and Rome. They brought back so many memories that I hoped I could keep notes like these while on my most recent trip.

So, without further ado, my “Notes on Croatia.”

  1. Fanny packs are not cool, no matter what anyone says.
  2. Why do I always end up sitting near the weirdos who cause border control problems?
  3. Will it ever be bad to lie about being an English speaker and say German instead?
  4. New longest-bus-ride record.
  5. Not that I know what Monaco or Monte Carlo look like, but I think the Zagreb main train station belongs there.
  6. I didn’t know a Euro could buy so much – water for about 70 cents and the biggest and best pizza I’ve ever had for 3 something.
  7. It doesn’t matter if I smell or my hair is slimy. People here are worse.
  8. I’m glad this country believes in shorts; too bad I didn’t bring any.
  9. I don’t remember the last time I was so happy to sit in an air-conditioned restaurant.
  10. I was too full for ice cream.
  11. Best beach I’ve ever been on. Small pebbles much preferable to sand.
  12. The water was also incredible. I’m sure it rivals Santorini. (I didn’t get to go in the water at Santorini.)
  13. I felt ripped off paying 50 kn for dinner at the Serbian restaurant. It was good, but was it Euro7 good? I had sausage links in great bread, with a cream cheese spread.
  14. I don’t have a No. 14.
  15. I’m paying 32 kn for a .33 ml Ožujsko (Croatian beer) at Buža, which means “hole in the wall,” and you go through a hole in the wall to get to the seats. It’s the place to drink. The waiters are singing behind me. The sunset wasn’t good, and I think the sun was too far behind the rocks to be seen well anyway. The line between sky and sea has almost become indistinguishable. The sky near the sun is blue at the horizon, to grey, purple, orange and almost white. All of these colors are very subdued. There are no waves. The Adriatic is very calm, even though it is colliding with rocks that climb to here and then to the wall and ramparts. A couple just danced to a song; the waiters clapped.
    Now, “what  a wonderful world… skies are blue…” is playing. Everything is so romantic here.
    There’s a slight breeze, the flaps on the table’s umbrellas are easily wafting in the breeze.
  16. With smaller cups, I’ll drink less with each sip and at a slower pace.
  17. I can jump off a cliff but I can’t walk on marble streets. Crazy.
  18. Never ride the train from Split to Zagreb in the summer.
  19. Croatia is the most tragically beautiful country I have ever seen.
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The Rome of my mother

When my mother turned 16, she was in Rome. Totally awesome, right?

She was visiting a long-time friend whose family had moved to Germany — her friend’s dad was in the military. So she went on vacation with her friend to Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Germany and camping in the Netherlands in the family’s VW bus. Again, totally awesome.

A friend of my mom’s friend just happened to know someone who lived in a villa outside of Rome, so they went there as well. They took the night train, saw the sights and from the scrapbook, I know they had a wonderful time.

Except my mom did not throw any coins into the Trevi Fountain. She was too cheap, she said. I knew I had to right this. I wanted to see all the sights she saw and more, but I knew that if I did only one thing in Rome, it was going to be throwing a coin for her into that fountain.

The first sight I saw in Rome was from my mother’s list: the Victor Emmanuel Monument. It was built to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Italy’s 1870 unification, and Victor Emmanuel was the king.

On my first full day in Rome, I saw much more from my list, starting with the Colossuem, a 2,000-year-old example of the architectural prowess of the Romans. It is four stories tall with the three types of Greek columns on either side of the Roman arches. The Colosseum was used for fighting and killing, which were spectator sports to the Romans, and the most famous sport was gladiator battles. The Colosseum’s floor is missing, exposing its underground passages, where the beasts the gladiators and the unlucky prisoners fought were kept. Sometime this summer, the underground will be open to the public. You can read about it here: Colosseum underground to open.

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum were stops on my mother’s list, but I only was able to visit St. Peter’s. The church was so much more than I expected. I knew it was big, but big is an understatement. I mean, these cherubs are bigger than me. Cherubs are supposed to be small, but when there are cherubs in a church of this scale, over-sized cherubs are necessary. And the church was just plain heavenly. Hearing the service from the base of the dome was beautiful, and again, the size is incredible.

Later that night I had dinner at a restaurant at Piazza Navona and my waiter volunteered to take a video of me throwing my coins into the Trevi Fountain. Approaching the fountain in the dark without hoards of people allowed the fountain to speak for itself. And it did.

Before I could see it, I could hear it sounding like a fast-moving waterfall. And really, that’s what it is. The water sparkled and the statues were lit from below. I could have sat there all night, just listening and watching the tourists throw in their coins to guarantee a return to Rome.

I began the following day at Piazza del Popolo, where my mom climbed one of the lion statues. Later in the day I saw the Temple of Aesculapius at the Laghetto, the lake in the Villa Borghese Gardens.

At the end of that day, I was refreshed but sad. I had accomplished what I set out to do, but I was leaving the next morning. But what do I have to worry about? I will be back. I threw a coin into the Trevi Fountain to guarantee my return.

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